Showing posts with label alice waters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alice waters. Show all posts

Sunday, February 23, 2014

birthday dinner season


meyer lemon tart.  georgia buchert made the stunning crown for me, and it's become our birthday crown.
we have eleven family birthdays in january, february and march. 

what are you people gettin' up to in april, may and june?

birthday dinner season is in full swing at my house.  today was cecily's family birthday dinner.  i'm always really curious about what my people will ask me to cook for their birthdays--i finally get to know how they really feel about certain dishes.

some of them have predictable favorites:  moses always wants spaghetti and meatballs.  christian always wants a classic chocolate cake with no frosting.  eva frequently requests beef stroganoff. 


catsup chicken, broccoli with daddy's dipping sauce.  i bought a cheaper rice this week to see if it really made a big difference.  it did :(.  have been spoiled by a much more delicious rice.

cecily surprised me by asking for something new this year: two family staples::  the meyer lemon tart from alice waters' & lindsay remolif shere's chez panisse dessert cookbook (a classic cookbook you might add to your collection if you're into that kind of thing,) & mark bittman's  minimalist ketchup chicken from the new york times, a fantastic, garlick-y comfort food i discovered a few years ago that is very popular chez exoskeleto.

(a note on the tart:  meyer lemons are sweeter than eureka lemons.  i use the two meyer lemons called for in the recipe PLUS one fairly large eureka lemon.  i always want less sweet, more tart, and more lemon flavor in lemon desserts.  i need to continue working on making this tart a little tarter, but this alteration is a step in the right direction.) 

what do you want for your birthday dinner?

i want chicken under a brick, lula's curry fries, and the tart cockaigne from the joy of cooking.  

my birthday's in july, so heads up!

Monday, August 27, 2012

sabbath day candles

favorites
our friends with green thumbs and excellent taste brought us a basket of beautiful herbs and peppers from their garden.  i'm grateful for people who can grow food.  that skill has eluded me.

the 44 oz. maverick cup in the background tells you everything you need to know about our family's commitment to juxtaposition.

so make me a deal:  when we're living in a post-apocolyptic world, you grow it & i'll cook it, okay?  i'm pretty good at cooking in weird circumstances and with skimpy ingredients, almost as good as i am at killing plants.
thanks heather and kevin!
all summer i've wanted to do a candlelit italian dinner outside, and today was finally the day.  ingrid is leaving for college tuesday morning, so this was our farewell dinner: portabello mushroom lasagna, spinach salad, glace carrots, homemade vanilla ice cream, peach crisp, lemonade.



the kids love these carrots
i wanted to make this mushroom lasagne, but this recipe was too pricey (i'll get to it later, right after i cash my macarthur check), so i downgraded to ina garten's recipe, which was still pretty delish. especially with a few sprigs of fresh thyme from that gorgeous herb bouquet added to the mushrooms and the bechamel.

farewell ingrid, august
the whole family was together tonight, plus a few of our favorite friends.  it was a blazing hot day today, but right before dinner, a thunderstorm rolled in and we got a gorgeous summer storm that brought things to the perfect temperature, plus made it dark enough for candles even though we ate at 7 & it was still light out.

i love you, alice waters.
one more thing:  peach crisp and homemade ice cream.  first of all, i only ever use alice water's crisp recipe.  it's undoubtedly the best one out there, and i've been using it for years.  second of all, you definitely want an ice cream maker.  i love the simplest vanilla with a reduced amount of sugar so the flavor of the cream is the center piece.  which is what you want with really good peaches.  nothing to distract from the beauty of that brief-lived summer ecstasy.

never use any other crisp topping.  it's all about the roasted almonds.
sitting in my back yard eating peaches and looking at the mountains after a rain storm. come visit me in august, and that's what we'll do.
homemade ice cream is a whole different subject.

(rum & maldon sea salt, as this blogger suggests, is so not necessary.  fun, i suppose, but i think it would just get in the way.  also, i double the topping recipe because i'm a topping whore.)
Nectarine and Blueberry Crisp
Adapted from the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook and Chez Panisse Fruit
½ cup almonds
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
a pinch of salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 ripe nectarines, pitted and cut into 1 inch pieces
1 cup blueberries
¼ cup sugar
3 tablespoons unbleached flour
zest of one lemon, chopped fine
1 tablespoon aged rum
For the Topping
Preheat oven to 375 F. Toast the almonds until they smell nutty and are slightly more brown, about 7 or 8 minutes. Chop the almonds to a medium to fine consistency. Combine the flour, the sugars, the salt and spice in a mixing bowl. Add the chilled butter in pieces and mix with your fingers until it becomes mealy. Add the nuts and mix until the flour mixture holds together when squeezed. Put aside. (The topping can be prepared up to a week in advance and refrigerated).
For the Crisp
Mix the fruit in a medium-sized bowl and then add the sugar. Taste and adjust for sweetness. (*Note, don’t over sugar the fruit—there’s something quite beautiful about a semi-sweet crisp. Don’t be afraid to let the fruit express itself in its truest form.) Dust the flour over the mixture and stir gently. Spoon the topping into a small cooking dish is just big enough to hold the fruit. Mound a small amount in the center of the dish. Then, gently add the crisp mixture on top. Lightly push the crumble on top of the fruit mixture.
Place a cookie sheet on the middle rack of the oven (to catch any overflow juices) and put the crisp dish on top. Bake in the oven for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned and the fruit juices are thickened and bubbling. The delicious smell of baked fruit will help you know when it’s close to being ready.
Serve with rum flavored whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. Finish the ice cream with a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.

Sunday, February 12, 2012

home cookin' with lara--lesson 1

my friend asked if she could come learn to cook in my kitchen.  that's very flattering, but i'm far from chefdom, rather i'm a home cook on a budget who loves to eat as deliciously as possible.  so she's coming over this afternoon, and we're making dinner for sixteen, and it's gonna go down like this:

1) artisinal mac n' cheese
2) bammy's garlic bread
3) arugala, blood orange, and avacado salad with dijon vinaigrette
4) garlic seared cauliflower
5) hot fudge sundaes with grandma eva's hot fudge sauce and toasted almonds
6) giant chocolate chip cookies

it's all very simple comfort food, but it incorporates some of my favorite and most often used cooking techniques, mostly from martha and alice, goddesses of the hearth and simple foods.

here are the basic tools that you can spin off in a bunch of different ways:

1) bechamel sauce--this is the sauce you can do a hundred things with:  a vegetable gratin, a lasagne, macaroni and cheese, a tomato cream sauce, and so on.  change up the cheese, the pasta, the vegetable, and you have a new twist on this old favorite.  and, for girls in tight places *, you can always substitute, for example, a sharp cheddar for the gruyere in the artisinal mac n' cheese.  it's a different flavor, but still good and about a third the price.

in regards to gratins, one year at thanksgiving, emily made a bok choy gratin that changed my world forever.

2) pan-seared vegetables--this technique comes from alice waters' the art of simple food.  i don' t know why everyone doesn't use it all the time.  you heat some olive oil to just before its smoking point, throw in cauliflower broken into fairly small bite-sized pieces, grate some garlic or throw in some minced garlic, season with s&p, and cook until the cauliflower is a little caramelized and brown on one side (don't stir it around much), give it one or two stirs until the vegetable is tender but still has a little bite to it, and you're done.  in the winter, i do this technique with either cauliflower, frozen green beans (the skinny ones, and i add some red chile flakes if my kids are okay with it), or frozen corn (add some canned green chiles).  in the summer, zucchini, fresh corn with fresh chiles, swiss chard, or any other summer squash all work great.  i haven't found even a resistant vegetable eater who doesn't like this.  and of course you can mix it up with some lemon juice, vinegars, shallots, capers, anchovies, whatever you like to change the flavors from time to time.  i generally like it as simple as possible, and stick to olive oil, garlic, and s & p.

3) an orange supreme--i'm insanely crazy about this technique, and use it constantly during citrus season.  in case you haven't noticed, this is a banner year for citrus.

4) vinaigrette--i had a hard time always getting my acid levels right in my vinaigrettes (i don't buy bottled dressings.  first, they're disgusting, and second, they're expensive.  take note, girls in tight places.) until i learned from martha that you first season your vinegar with salt to get the right acidity, then you add in the oil, garlic, herbs, mustards, etc.  i use a basic vinaigrette and add mayonaise for a creamy dressing, or avacado, different herbs, shallots, chiles, mustards, vinegars, etc. to customize for the particular salad.  but again, you can't go wrong with oil, vinegar, and salt.


5) toasted nuts--i've botched countless batches of toasted nuts until i learned alice w's foolproof technique: toast nuts on a baking sheet at 375 for six minutes.  i used to use smell, or taste test, or whatever, and almost always got it wrong.  this one always works.

6) cookies--i hate baking.  but now i have lula to make batches of cookie dough for us (she likes the chocolate chip cookie recipe on the ghiradelli's bag--other cooks i trust swear by the new york times recipe if you wanna get all fancy).  emily taught me that cookies turn out really well after the dough has been in the fridge for three days.  i like my chocolate chip cookies a little salty, so i add an extra 1/8th t. of salt.  oh, and always buy unsalted butter.  salted butter is lower quality because you can hide rancidity with salt.

7) hot fudge sauce--this comes from my outrageous grandma eva, who's been gone for almost 20 years now.  use her sauce as a base, and you can add chocolate or liquers to fancy it up.  of course in times of hardship, the basic recipe is fantastic.  oh, and again, i add a pinch of salt.  oh, yeah, and an extra quarter cup of cocoa and a chopped up lindt bar of 70% or higher cocoa content.  but that's only when i'm flush or can't leave well enough alone.

grandma eva's hot fudge sauce:

1 c. sugar
2 T. cocoa
2 T. butter
7/8 can of canned milk
1 T. vanilla
pinch of salt

boil for 7 or 8 minutes at a low boil until the sauce reaches the requisite thickness.

tights:  charcoal

inspiration:  alice and martha

looking forward to:  cooking with friends

* girls in tight places:  this is anyone who wants to feel like a girl, but is, shall we say, past the age of girlhood, or perhaps has a "y" chromosome, but thinks that girls get cooler tights and clothes, or whatever.  or, if, like julie said about whitney houston yesterday, you're really beautiful and talented and rich, but that's not enough to keep you out of a tight place.